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jimlagos
United Kingdom
205 Posts |
 Posted - 18 Feb 2015 : 11:34:31
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Greetings.
I've just bought a sorry state of a 1964 Sunbeam Rapier. I need to do a lot of work to make it roadworthy and presentable. I wondered whether certain parts are readily available? For example a water control tap for the heater, a weather strip to affix to the door to seal against the opening windows. The two small badges that fix to the rear wings saying (I believe) "Rapier". These kind of parts do not seem to be readily available, and I will need a lot of bits!
Any advice, please, before I start rebuilding?
Jim in Redditch Worcs
jim |
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johnc
United Kingdom
212 Posts |
Posted - 18 Feb 2015 : 14:10:39
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Hi Jim,
Welcome to the wonderful world of Rapiers.I've pretty much completed my SIV restoration and I'll have a look what bits I may have around that may be of use to you.I did have difficulty finding rubber seals and did not find any that suited for the leading edge of the rear window/door,you may try C O Baines who stock a vast range of rubber profiles which can be adapted for some situations.
Alpine Westmidlands are good for mechanical parts and some body parts as are Speedy Spares,the club of course have stocks of spares.
I'll get back to you when I've checked on my stock of bits.
Regards
John |
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bigt80
United Kingdom
1051 Posts |
Posted - 18 Feb 2015 : 17:33:10
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Hi Jim & welcome to the forum. Got any pics of your Series Rapier?We don't mind what state they're in because we love our Rapiers! 
Good advice there from johnc: quite a bit of mechanical stuff still around, but as far as trim and bodywork goes; it is getting harder to find stuff. By the sounds of it you have got a reasonable starting point; or do you have to have body welded and interior attended to? You should get support on here and of course it is always worth joining the club  .
Cheers. G. |
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jimlagos
United Kingdom
205 Posts |
Posted - 19 Feb 2015 : 00:24:12
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Thanks
I bought it from an ebay vendor. I had previously bought and rebuilt an Austin A40 Farina saloon, but have always admired the Rapier since I was a young teenager. When I spotted this one on ebay, I couldn't resist it. Now it is squeezed into my garage, I've found that the engine and carb needs stripping and rebuilding to get it mobile! I can then start on repairing and servicing the entire remainder of the poor old girl. I may be old and confused but I WILL do it! If anyone is within range of Redditch, Worcs. I would love to get to see a proper Rapier that is roadworthy. The car in question is:-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181661073586?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Thank you for your interest so far.
jim |
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grumpy1
United Kingdom
34 Posts |
Posted - 19 Feb 2015 : 15:31:13
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| Hi Jim and welcome to the club. Some of the parts you outline are avialable from the club. I hold remanufactured wing badges (in stock) and window seals are available through the club's Spares Secretary. (You need to be a member to get club discounts)You can email both of us through the website. Regards, Derek |
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jimlagos
United Kingdom
205 Posts |
Posted - 19 Feb 2015 : 16:38:10
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Well I've started sorting the car and I have mega problems! For a start, it's not the right engine, and even the head is not the correct head and generally all ancillaries are wrong and/or codged! Even the radiator has a "secret repair" effected with what looks like Araldite!
I think I need to find a spare engine and carbs that are worth overhauling, anyone with a past repair Rapier that he's breaking?
jim |
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bigt80
United Kingdom
1051 Posts |
Posted - 21 Feb 2015 : 13:54:51
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Thanks for the link. It looks pretty good in the pics & I see description said engine had been rebuilt; but not properly by the sounds of it. Not aware of any Series IV's, (or a IIIA would probably do OK for engine, but better have like for like for other bits really), being broken up at the moment. Our Series spares man may know of something & his e-mail link is on the website too.
Keep us posted how you get on. Cheers. G. |
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jimlagos
United Kingdom
205 Posts |
Posted - 04 Mar 2015 : 23:05:58
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Well....The engine is totally scrap, and the rest of the car, particularly the wiring, is a disaster area. I've been fortunate to have the help of a good friend sorting out the dashboard wiring. The previous owner had completely messed up the connections. We're now trying to work out where the switches should be in the dashboard.
I've located a spare engine, however not a genuine Rapier, but should fit and move the car to events during the summer? The problem is that everywhere we look, it's obvious that someone has "fiddled" and messed up wiring connections, wrong bolts screwed in and cross threaded, etc. As a consequence, before I actually use it I must check everything, brakes steering etc.
It's a little like nailing a blancmange on the wall with a 6inch nail.
Has anybody got a good photo of the dashboard in an early series 4?
It would be so useful to see where switches should be located.
jim |
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jimlagos
United Kingdom
205 Posts |
Posted - 08 Mar 2015 : 21:13:51
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Me again
Can anyone tell me whether a 1725 Hillman Hunter engine will fit into a Series 4 Rapier, and match to the gearbox. I'm getting a little impatient to get this car on the roads!
jim |
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pruyter
Netherlands
320 Posts |
Posted - 09 Mar 2015 : 08:43:05
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It will, but you have to use flywheel, pressure plate and clutch plate of your series Rapier. Beside that you have to use from your series Rapier also the front engine mounting plate, crankshaft pulley, waterpump and thermostat housing.Beside that you have to use both the inlet and exhaust manifold and carburettor of your Rapier. Of course you have to use also the engine mounting rubbers of your series Rapier. You have to use this items because the Hunter engine is mounted in a slant of 10 degrees while the engine of your Rapier is situated upright. Using the Hunter engine gives you the opportunity to change to both an alternator and negative earth. If you don't do that than you need both the dynamo and the mounting bracket of your Rapier. I think this it about it from what I remember of this conversion.
Regards,
Peter |
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bigt80
United Kingdom
1051 Posts |
Posted - 09 Mar 2015 : 09:58:45
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| I think pruyter has covered it, but output shaft on series cars are thick splines, whereas on Arrow they are fine, so the centre plate? needs to match: not sure if I've got that exactly right, but you need to be aware. I think you can use a later diaphragm clutch mated to the early g'box: it is much better than those heavy old multi-spring covers on the older cars, however a Series IV may already have had this set up? Hope I've not confused things! Keep at it! Cheers. G. |
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pruyter
Netherlands
320 Posts |
Posted - 09 Mar 2015 : 14:22:00
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Yes Glenn you are right about the clutch plate and that is why you have to use the existing flywheel plus clutch cover and clutch plate as I have described. I guess you mean with centre plate what I call clutch plate. The later diafragm clutch was used on the series Rapier 4 A which came in the autumm of 1964 with also a full synchromesh gearbox. This Rapiers can be regognized by the chassisnumber which starts with B331. The diagfragm clutch (7.5 inch) is indeed much more comfortable then the multi spring cover (8 inch). The diafragm clutch matches with the former gearbox but...in that case you have to use also the clutch fork and pedestal which are used together with the diafragm clutch.
So it al depends on what access you have to what parts.
Regards,
Peter |
Edited by - pruyter on 09 Mar 2015 14:24:58 |
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jimlagos
United Kingdom
205 Posts |
Posted - 09 Mar 2015 : 16:13:02
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Wow,thank you gentlemen.
I have located a Rootes engine and am looking to install it later this week. Heavens knows what car it came from, but when I clean it I'll be able to see the numbers of casting so might be a little more informed. I'll be able to check the splines on my gearbox first motion shaft when I get the remains of the engine out. When I've learnt everything about these cars it usually works out too late! Previously a Ford man, then an Austin man, now learning to be a Rootes man.
jim |
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pruyter
Netherlands
320 Posts |
Posted - 09 Mar 2015 : 16:47:46
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If you know what the engine number of your Rootes engine is inform us about it and probably we can tell you exactly where it did come from.
The engine number is situated right above the fuel pump on the engine block. The splines of your gearbox will be 10 splines while the output shafts of the Hunter and the last few hunderds of the series 5 have 25 splines which is the fine spline.
Your Rapier is from 1964 which means it can be a Series 4 or a Series 4 A. Check the chassisnumber and you know what you have and then you know what kind of clutch you have.
Regards,
Peter |
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jimlagos
United Kingdom
205 Posts |
Posted - 10 Mar 2015 : 16:52:17
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Thanks Peter
The scrap engine that was in the car has a number as follows;-
5711011139 below there is H5 H
I think that is accurate,difficult to read after scratching off the paint etc.
The engine I've purloined has a number as follows;-
B0009512 and below that appears to be HSO again not very clear.
The body/chassis number on my car is;- 3301123 registered 01.01.1964
I'm fairly confident that it started out as a Series 4 model. My main aim is to get it mobile for the summer . I can fix the trillion problems as a "rolling project"
Suppose I better join the club, as I've just ordered a load of spare bits from Alpine, which are half a mile from my house. I know I will need many more!
jim |
Edited by - jimlagos on 10 Mar 2015 16:52:38 |
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pruyter
Netherlands
320 Posts |
Posted - 10 Mar 2015 : 17:36:41
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Hi Jim,
Your chassisnumber must be B 3301123 HHO if it has not an overdrive, otherwise it should be B 3301123 OD HHO. The first H stands for Homemarket, the second H stands for Hardtop and the O stands for Ordinary (Standard Specification)
The Rapier you have bought is a very early Rapier Series 4 it is no 1123 from the 6073 early Series 4 Rapiers. After that there were built 3627 Rapiers series 4 A. So now we know that you have a non full synchro gearbox, i.e. the first gear has no synchromesh. We also know now that you have not the 7.5 inch diafragm clutch but the clutch cover with the springs.
The scrap engine that was in your Rapier is not a Rootes engine when I go by the number you mention.
The engine that, as you put it, is purloined by you is harder to detact because it has 8 digits and the only engine I know of with 8 digits is a Hillman Minx 5 A but....then the chassisnumber should start with B 035 and the number you have given starts with B 000.
The chassisnumber for the Hillman Minx 3 A special starts with B 00 but has only 7 digits. So my question is: are you absolutely sure the number has 8 digits??? This is very important, because if you have a Hillman engine (this one looks like the Sunbeam engine) then you have a head of cast iron on it instead of alu and you don't want that.
If I must guess the number you have given has one "0" to much and if so you have a Hillman engine with a cast iron head..
I am curious what you can find out more.
Regards,
Peter |
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Topic |
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Newly acquired Rapier.
